So...Warhammer 40k....

[Seraph]

Sooo...updates! been working on a particular orc for a couple days now. I know its my first time painting, but I still wanna do a good job :<

After the base coat, I mostly went and painted some base colors, and a couple minor details:



Tonight, I went and added a ton of details, as well as spending half an hour attempting to make the metal plates look shiny. I failed. Seven coats of fail, to be exact. <sigh>

Still, he's coming along:



Some detail for the back:



Aaaand because I was an absolute tard, I played around with some of the ones I was painting base coats on, and made a little unfunny comic. <.<

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...chan/comic.png

I really appreciate all the advice everyone's given me, I'm nervous as get out about the next part, shadows and highlighting, but I am still rather proud of this. Its my first time ever painting a miniature, and boy is it grueling LOL

[Crossbow]

Absolutely nothing wrong with your painting at all. It's certainly better than my first attempt (and many subsequent attempts, for that matter.) Brush control is good, and it looks like you've got a good even coat for the base. Time to add some (or add more, if you've started) shading and highlighting.

As for the metal plates, I wouldn't try to push for super shiny, especially on an ork. They're probably going to be a bit lax about spit and polish as it is. From a paint standpoint, It's hard to get metallic paints to be very shiny without playing some tricks.

Like other colors, you'll need multiple shades of metallic to represent high shine. Using the shoulder plate as an example, start with a dark silver metallic over the whole thing. Then use a series of smaller and smaller highlights with lighter silvers, working towards the top center of the plate. This will simulate more light hitting the top and give the impression of shine. Here's a quick example I found (not my painting. I wish.) that shows what I mean:


The artist used multiple coats of progressively brighter silvers, as well as multiple dark washes to get the effect. Metallics are tricky, so don't get discouraged.

[Elspeth]

One tip i have read is to do paint all one color at once. So do all the green, then the red. then you aren't cleaning your brush all the time. Plus it helps when you start mixing custom colors.

[Nurian]

Da only fing rong wit dat is dere's not enuff dakka!!

I kid! I kid! Looks great!
You're making me want to get back into painting! I had 3 Basilisks that were themed on the Sisters of Fate. Clotho looked like she just rolled out of the factory, Lachesis had some battle scarring and Atropos looked like she'd break down any day.
Lachesis had some bullet holes I was proud of. I used a hobby knife and gouged out part of the plastic, then used a tooth pick to apply some silver like it had just happened. Light brushings of darker green and black paint made scorch marks.
Atropos had part of the shield melted away. I don't recommend this, but I literally melted the shield , cooled it then applied scorching. Bullet holes, some blood.....I was going to add an unexploded shell after she got hit in a game but didn't go up, but I never got the chance.

I think it's stuff like this which people actually like about Warhammer. The creativity you can have with your models.

[ApolloSZ]

I like the sneaking dreadnought.

*Whirrs and clanks*
"Do you boyz 'ere somethin?"
*Weapon charging*
"fuuuuuuu....."

Crossbow is right, your paint is not too thickly put on, nice coat, and details are looking good. You've done a good job cleaning the models of flash etc too it looks like.

Shadow wise, I'd use black or green washes, to get the recesses. But I'd highlight first, as if you use a wash, it will darken/blend the paint overall, making a smoother transition between light to dark.

With the metal I usually do (as your planning to or using GW paints?) - Boltgun metal over all, highlight/drybrush Mithril silver, then wash with Badab Black to dull it a little. Sometimes a brown ink or wash in spots if I want aged/rusted. If I get round to taking better pics I'll put one up.

This is all my own plans tho, you may want to do differently and that is perfectly fine

[Seraph]

With the metal I usually do (as your planning to or using GW paints?) - Boltgun metal over all, highlight/drybrush Mithril silver, then wash with Badab Black to dull it a little. Sometimes a brown ink or wash in spots if I want aged/rusted. If I get round to taking better pics I'll put one up.

We're planning to. Atm, since it's practice, I'm using the 99 cent acrylic paints from Walmart. I actually used to have a boltgun metal paint jar from when I used it to paint some kunai for a cosplay....but it dried up. :<

[RayvenQ]

Devlan mud is a must have on an Ork, it's a miracle in a bottle.

Or try thrakka green too.

I'll post a load of pics of my wips tommorow (well mostly all abandoned now)

[cinema guy]

I recently got in to Warhammer fantasy. I have played a lot of other games, but this was my first time I got in a large scale, lots of figures war game).

My Dwarf army consists of figures bought second hand, from ebay and cheaper figures from other manufactureres. I have only bought about 3 figures from new, and even they were at a discount).

To keep the prices down, don't buy direct from GW. There are plenty of internet stores that offer GW at a discount.

And for painting, I use this: Quickshade dip It takes all of the work out of the highlighting part of the paint job.

[RayvenQ]

Quickshade dip is especially great for Warhammer Fantasy Armies, since there's generally a ton of models.

Also I highly reccomend the Army Painter range of Sprays, not only do they come in a wide range of colours (great for priming and basecoating your models if they are a lot of one shade) and the paint itself goes on so damn smoothly and thinly, it's incredible.

[Crossbow]

Quickshade dip is especially great for Warhammer Fantasy Armies, since there's generally a ton of models.

Also I highly reccomend the Army Painter range of Sprays, not only do they come in a wide range of colours (great for priming and basecoating your models if they are a lot of one shade) and the paint itself goes on so damn smoothly and thinly, it's incredible.

Are the Army Painter spray primers really that good for the price? I tend to use more brush on primers lately and the cost of the Army Painter cans has kind of put me off...

[RayvenQ]

Well, As an Example Army PAinter Grey is a close match to the natural colour of the unpainted plastic, if it were exactly the same colour as that grey, you would not be able to tell at all that the models were primed. Plus it comes in a wide range of colours.

The white should be espcially good if it goes on as smooth as the others I've tried, much better than GW's Skull white which for me at least, always goes on grainy.

It's pretty much Airbrush Priming in a can (if you've ever used an airbrush you know howthin the paint goes on using it, its very much like that)

[Seraph]

Well I played my first game. just a small skirmish between my Ork Boyz and my husband's Space Marines Tactical Squad.

....I didn't get them halfway across the table before I lost half of my force. By the time I got them in assault range, I had six left out of a force of about 20. Needless to say, my husband was edging away from me by the time our game was finished. Not sure why, wonder if it had anything to do with the 2x4 I picked up. And my eyelid twitching.

[ApolloSZ]

Lol. In defence of your husband, it is a Dice game. Did you Sacrifice to the dice gods, or smash one dice with a hammer to keep the rest in fear?

I dunno the stats for Orks very well, so not sure if you get your armour or not seeing as the bolter is AP3. (and what else he used in the squad - Maybe a Missle (aka Rocket) launcher?) - Orks Boyz how ever are better at Eldar infantry at chasing down a gunline. But cover can be your friend when he uses big guns. Except flamers.

Be glad he wasn't using Long fangs. Or a wolf lord with Master crafted assault cannon

(WL with MC Ass Cann is funny, because ranged attacks hit on a 2 against most troops, and Master crafting gets you a re-roll on missed shots XD - Its completely over the top, to the point of funny.)

[Seraph]

Yep, he had a missile launcher in there. Who managed to wipe out a full squad in one shot. The dice gods totally hated me, because I swear, 80% of my shots didn't leave wounds. It was RIDICULOUS. Even when I finally got in there, half the attacks didn't wound SQUAT. He kept rolling saves (granted, he only had to roll a 3 or higher) like it was nothing else.

[ApolloSZ]

After the drop pod incident, I was almost banned from rolling my own armour saves

Landed a drop pod of Grey Hunters (tactical squad equivalent) in between 2 or 3 Imperial Guard squads (By accident. They deviated)

146 shots, including two melta guns and two plasma
Buncha lasguns and 1 melta and 1 plasma missed.
1 Melta 1 Plasma hit, two GH killed.
113 armour saves to roll. Only 2 more GH died. 4 in total of 10.

We theorize there was absolutely no paint left on the armour or hair left on the surviving marines, and they are the most tanned Space Wolves out there.

Seraph - Don't forget your squads models can be up to 2 inches apart, spread out to avoid templates like the Missle Launcher.