Old Toys

[Argabarga]

Well, I opened up the engine tonight to get at the light bulb inside.

All the exterior lights, like headlights, or foglights and such are not individual bulbs, but small holes drilled into the shells with a bit of clear plastic/resin put in to give the appearance of glass.

There's a single 12v bulb that sits on the chassis inside the shell and lights everything. This one's clearly broken, you can hold it up to the light and see the filament inside is now in two pieces, I just have to find a modern-day bulb that's compatible and that will be fixed.

The reverse unit is proving more problematic. (Apparently, that's a big bug-a-boo for all veteran Flyers at this point)

It's a three position drum switch. Every time you apply power from the transformer, it will cycle through the positions, Forward/neutral/reverse by causing a little brass rod to push on a plastic cog gear and move it "ahead" one position, then fall back and do it again, and again, until you get the direction you want.

The problem is the rod is getting stuck after one advancement, two if you're lucky, and then it refuses to cycle until you physically open the unit up and reset it. It doesn't take much to free the mechanism, but I've cleaned the bejeezus out of it and soaked in in WD40, and it still gets stuck, so something might be binding that I have no idea how to fix. I'll keep at it for a bit, but if it still refuses to cooperate, I'll just get a new reverser, it's separate from the main motor anyway.

There actually isn't a smoke unit in this particular engine, turns out Dad's memory was a bit fuzzy, and he was recalling an earlier engine he had that did smoke, but it was replaced by this non-smoker after the original took a nosedive off the train table and onto the basement floor one day when it ran through an open switch.... he says he can still remember watching it fall, and was helpless to save it from the other side of the table....

So, there's one thing I don't need to fix, it don't exist!

[Argabarga]

The set consisted of a Baldwin ...

Well, there's the problem right there!

I shouldn't say that, American Flyer had a very-simplified Bladwin switcher in their catalog too, so simplified in fact, I can't tell what model it is, but the years it was made/offered hints it's supposed to represent the VO-1000. All the brochures and eBay listings only say "Baldwin Switcher" since it was the only one AF ever made.

Well, you be the judge. http://www.geocities.com/theupstairs...NW-Baldwin.jpg

[wolfie]

There's a single 12v bulb that sits on the chassis inside the shell and lights everything. This one's clearly broken, you can hold it up to the light and see the filament inside is now in two pieces, I just have to find a modern-day bulb that's compatible and that will be fixed.

Roughly how big (both diameter and length) is the bulb? Grain of Wheat (roughly 1/10 inch diameter by around 1/4" long from tip to the shortest you can reliably cut and strip the leads) are fairly common in model train layouts - try a hobby shop. Type 194 (automotive) is probably a bit bigger than what you're looking for. Up to a few years ago, you could easily get bulbs around 1/8" diameter by 1" long (seasonal item - replacement lights for 10 lamp mini-light sets), but LEDs killed those off.

[mikoyan29]

Well, now I've done it, I just bought a lot of 6 extra freight cars off Ebay, and I'm bidding on some more.

Trains aren't a hobby, they're a malignant disease! :P

Tell me about it. I just started an N-scale set up. It's nice and relaxing to listen to though.

[Argabarga]

Roughly how big (both diameter and length) is the bulb? Grain of Wheat (roughly 1/10 inch diameter by around 1/4" long from tip to the shortest you can reliably cut and strip the leads) are fairly common in model train layouts - try a hobby shop. Type 194 (automotive) is probably a bit bigger than what you're looking for. Up to a few years ago, you could easily get bulbs around 1/8" diameter by 1" long (seasonal item - replacement lights for 10 lamp mini-light sets), but LEDs killed those off.

I'm thinkin' this might be a job for Radio Shack, the problem with automotive bulbs is they almost all use bayonet style fittings, and this is a screw-in style, and it's fairy short and stubby... not many cars would use something this size.

[wolfie]

Is the threaded base around 3/8" in diameter, or around 1/8"? Can't recall the exact measurements, but there are 2 main sizes of miniature threaded base.

Radio Shack has pretty much gone over to consumer electronics - their hobbyist section has virtually nothing any more. Try Active Components, Sayal, or Electrosonic. Also, check at a hobby store - they should know where to get a replacement bulb for an American Flyer train. The larger base is probably going to be easier to find - dial lamps for radios that used 12 VAC for the filaments on the tubes.

Worst case you may need to do a bit of "kitbashing" - due to the age, the bulb probably has a brass base instead of chromed - this is good. You may need to break out the glass of the old bulb, along with the adhesive, and unsolder the leads ("shell" lead will have a small solder dot where the brass meets the glass, "tip" lead is in the big solder blob at the bottom), then solder a replacement bulb into the base, if you can't get a direct replacement. For the smaller base, a GOW bulb would be the one to use, or an automotive bulb for the large base (LED - a "hotwire" automotive bulb would probably give off too much heat).

If all else fails, you might need to replace the socket with one that fits a currently-available bulb - try to avoid that, since modifications would reduce the value of the train set.

Can you post a photo of the dead bulb alongside a size reference (ruler would be the best, but in a pinch a coin will do)?

[lordlundar]

With my old Tyco locomotives, you didn't need the fluid. They'd generate their own smoke

Well, once anyways.

[Argabarga]

The reverser is now fixed. The rod has a small metal channel it's supposed to move back and forth in, and when it gets stuck at one end, those in the know say it's because the constant back-and-forth travel causes it to eventually peen a notch into the top of the slot where it gets stuck.

There's also a claim that over time, due to exposure to the electric motor itself, the metal around the channel (just sheet metal) becomes magnetized and the rod isn't "sticking" mechanically, but magnetically. (some say this can't happen and that it's only an urban legend, others swear it can)

Either way, we put a drop of glue into the top of the channel and let it dry, and now it runs like clockwork. Whatever was causing it, shortening the "throw" on the rod seems to have fixed the issue.

It also turns out the bulb (14v with a 3/8'' base) is still made aftermarket, since every AF engine, trackside accessory and building ran off the exact same style bulb, the only problem is, you have to send away for them since no one has them at store/retail-level, so I'll have to order one (a whopping eighty cents) and pay four times that in shipping and wait a day or two to get it, and I HATE waiting.

[wolfie]

There's also a claim that over time, due to exposure to the electric motor itself, the metal around the channel (just sheet metal) becomes magnetized and the rod isn't "sticking" mechanically, but magnetically. (some say this can't happen and that it's only an urban legend, others swear it can)

The ONLY way you can get magnetic "sticking" is if BOTH pieces (channel and rod that slide in it) are a ferrous metal. If either is nonferrous, it's gotta be mechanical. From your description of the "quick fix", it sounds like a mechanical issue.

It also turns out the bulb (14v with a 3/8'' base) is still made aftermarket, since every AF engine, trackside accessory and building ran off the exact same style bulb, the only problem is, you have to send away for them since no one has them at store/retail-level, so I'll have to order one (a whopping eighty cents) and pay four times that in shipping and wait a day or two to get it, and I HATE waiting.

Since the shipping is many times the cost of the bulb itself, I'm surprised that some train-oriented hobby shop (for obvious reasons, it wouldn't be a hot seller at a place that specialized in R/C planes) doesn't order a dozen or so with a slower (and cheaper) shipping method (doubt if the shipping cost scales with the number of bulbs - sounds like a minimum charge, where a significant number of bulbs could be shipped for the same amount), and sell them for 2 bucks each. If you knew that you could walk in to Joe's Train Shed and buy a bulb for 2 bucks, would you go the mail-order route, pay 80 cents for the bulb, and 3 bucks for the 2-day express shipping?

[Argabarga]

The only local hobbyshop that handled trains went out of business about 5 years ago, I heard a new place opened up and checked it out, but they don't do trains, they're more of a models/ RC plane/RC car kind of place.

At least around here, eBay/online ordering has really hit mom n' pop hobby HARD. A shame too, because he was an authorized Lionel dealer, AND always had a few pieces of AF stuff on the shelf he'd picked up at estate sales and the like.

The issue might have just become moot. Dad the electronic engineer pointed out that the bulb's intensity is based on how much power the locomotive is getting. The more throttle you give it, the brighter it got, and at lower speeds, it would be dim or off completely.

He took the old bulb, crushed the glass part, and attached wires to the bulbs leads, hooked THOSE to a LED and taped THAT to the top the boiler inside right where it would shine straight ahead and out the headlight hole at full intensity as long as the power is on.

Since it wasn't a very rare model to start with, nothing is hurt by "upgrading" it.

[wolfie]

He took the old bulb, crushed the glass part, and attached wires to the bulbs leads, hooked THOSE to a LED and taped THAT to the top the boiler inside right where it would shine straight ahead and out the headlight hole at full intensity as long as the power is on.

Since it wasn't a very rare model to start with, nothing is hurt by "upgrading" it.

That's why, in my earlier post, I suggested modifying the dead bulb (which is what your father did) instead of the model itself - even if it were a rare model, nothing would be hurt since the modification could be completely (and undetectably) undone by replacing the "upgraded" bulb with an OEM direct replacement.

[Argabarga]

Purchased a lot of 40 pieces of old track, plus 4 switches and a few other odds n' ends off eBay.

Now I have enough raw material to set up an honest to goodness classification yard over on the one side. The lot included one new boxcar for me too, the tuscan "Great Northern" one, though the coupler on one end is broken and needs replaced. From what I've seen, that's one of the rarer pieces out there, because the logo on the one side isn't painted, it's a decal, and a lot of them apparently haven't survived without flaking off....

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...33284376_n.jpg

The lot also had these trestle supports

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...33445910_n.jpg

It's easier to clean up old and corroded track by lying it out and then just scrubbing the top with pot and pan pads. So I've laid out this goes-to-nowhere track just to shine it up. Actually, it does go somewhere, I call it the Palookaville Branch Line, one way tickets only

https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...67334102_n.jpg

[mikoyan29]

That is a pretty cool set up. I really wish I had the space for either an HO or O scale train, so I am pretty content with my current n-scale train. I have some turnouts on the way so that I will be able to switch trains between my two loops. I have a pretty decent rail yard in the interior loop.

[Argabarga]

Went on a real spending splurge. Decided a locomotive that can only pull maybe 8 cars wasn't good enough. Got this

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...42987471_n.jpg

It's a 4-6-2 Pacific, (or, a K4/K5 as it would be known in Pennsylvania Railroad nomenclature, it has PRR markings) immediate post-WW2, 47' or 48' model I believe (in 46' they didn't put the AMERICAN FLYER LINES lettering on the trains, just the railroad names)

Couldn't say no. For just a kid's toy, it really has some beautiful styling, real metal grab irons, light up marker light lanterns (as soon as I get a, *sigh* WORKING blub) and intricate working driving rods.

Started up right out of the box, reverser unit still works too, but it needs new driving wheels (already ordered), these ones are coming apart at the flanges, and occasionally, the loose flange will touch the inner body of the engine (die case metal, not plastic like the other) and short itself out.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...67513689_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...20975217_n.jpg

It's been scaled-down a bit to fit on the track without derailing on the curves (and the middle drivers are flange-less too, same reason) You can see it takes up about as much space as the Atlantic, but in real life, it was a far larger engine. The Reading and the PRR were "friendly" rivals in the day whose tracks often ran parallel with each other and the competed for the same business (Think UPS/FedEX). Another reason I couldn't turn down this one, history!

Speaking of history, in the 50's, "Piggyback" hauling of truck trailers was a brand new technology, so I was surprised to find they made a model of that as well.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...15310692_n.jpg

The trailers still have their original stickers holding on, that's impressive. They advertize Erector sets, another toy made by the same company that made the trains.

[mikoyan29]

Man...I'd love that scale....