Archery question?

[mjr]

I've thought of getting a little bit into archery, mainly as a "hobby" (no competitions or anything), and for some "target practice".

Anyway, there are numerous options as far as bows, arrow tips, etc.

I don't want to drop a ton of money on something in which I may lose interest in six months.

That said, would a regular bow (not sure what it's called) or a Compound bow be the way to start? How many pounds? What types of arrow tips?

Also, I've seen a few "hand held" crossbows (they look like a "pistol" instead of a "rifle"). But I've heard those aren't any good, because the bolt velocity isn't very high, and some people have had various other issues with them.

I'm left-handed. I've heard that matters, too.

Thoughts??

[Kheldarson]

Speaking as someone who's done a little bit of shooting and works at an outdoor store, a compound bow is easier to draw, but has a lot more power. A longbow takes a bit more effort to pull, but not as much power (for comparable sizes). You'd want to go into an archery range that rents gear to get a feel for the different types and get some advice on what to shoot. If there isn't a range, I'd talk with your sporting/outdoors goods store. Associates there usually do a bit of shooting and can help guide you.

[Gizmo]

I shoot traditional longbow. Because my interest stems from medieval reenactment. I do also have a fibreglass "nomad" bow or horse bow which is also all one piece. Draw weight depends on the thickness of the wood bases bows. Fibreglass I'm not actually sure on what the draw depends on.

I don't use compound bows personally however price wise I have seen compound is a lot more expensive even around the 30LB mark which is what my other two are. But thats the UK market.

I second the suggestion above to visit an archery store and get their advice.

[Crossbow]

I agree with visiting an archery store/range if possible. They'll help you with getting somethign set for your size/strength. If there isn't a store nearby, try checking with the local universities. They may have a club or offer classes for the students, and might be able to direct you to someone that can help.

I shoot pretty much everything (longbow, recurve, crossbow, compound), but for target practice, I tend to use a longbow or recurve. It's just what I learned on. I save the compound for hunting. And crossbow is something else all together...

[MoonCat]

I always wanted a crossbow....


It's probably a good thing I don't have one.


Sorry, back to your regularly scheduled thread....

[wolfie]

That said, would a regular bow (not sure what it's called) or a Compound bow be the way to start? How many pounds? What types of arrow tips?

Also, I've seen a few "hand held" crossbows (they look like a "pistol" instead of a "rifle"). But I've heard those aren't any good, because the bolt velocity isn't very high, and some people have had various other issues with them.

I'm left-handed. I've heard that matters, too.

Thoughts??

Since you'll only be using it for target practice (i.e. not hunting), there's only one choice for arrow tips - target points. Good news: they're probably the cheapest type of point available.

If you're considering a crossbow, check out what's legal in your area. For example, in Canada, a "one-hand" crossbow, or a crossbow with a bow span of less than 50 centimetres, is classed as a prohibited weapon - you can go to jail for owning one. Ordinary bows tend to have fewer restrictions.

Handedness matters, since with all but the simplest bows the grip will be carved differently (to fit the support hand, and have a cutaway so the arrow rest is in the plane of the bow).

[fireheart]

OK, as someone who is actually doing archery, I can answer most of these questions.

That said, would a regular bow (not sure what it's called) or a Compound bow be the way to start? How many pounds? What types of arrow tips?

If by regular bow you mean the type that is used in Olympic-style archery, that would be a recurve. Both have their pros and cons. A recurve can be taken apart easily and you can start light and work your way up over time. Technique takes some time to learn, but it's easier to maintain and whatnot. I would recommend a take-apart bow as they are MUCH MUCH easier to transport.

Compounds do have their benefits, but I'm not really well-versed in those.

My advice would be to find a beginner course at an archery range (or at a club) and experiment. They can help you with technique and answer any questions as well as the pro shop. They may also be able to recommend a pro shop. Chances are that you will need to complete said course before you can shoot at their range anyway. (So they know you can shoot safely)

As far as "pounds" go, you will need to be sized up by someone at a pro shop. For a recurve, the "poundage" is in the limbs (the bits that the string hangs off of) while the riser (handle) stays the same. For a recurve, as you get stronger, you will need to upgrade your limbs.

Most ranges do not permit anything other than "target tips" for various reasons.

Also keep in mind that quite a number of ranges will prohibit anything over 60lbs draw length.

I'm left-handed. I've heard that matters, too.

For recurves, it does affect mostly your handle and should you choose to shoot recurve, it will just mean buying equipment designed for left handers and there's quite a bit.

Here is the "beginner" list and guide for a buyer of a recurve bow:

-Riser: this is the handle where you grip the bow. It also is where your arrow rest is located and if you are buying a take-apart bow, it'll also have your plunger. Risers come in wooden, plastic or metal and come in two sizes: 23" and 25". I'll go into this in a minute. Wooden risers are commonly used with training bows, plastic risers ditto.

-Limbs: This is where the string is attached and is also where the power comes from. This is also where poundage comes into play as the limb you need depends on your draw weight. Limbs come in 3 sizes: Short, Medium or Long. The size depends on your draw length. Depending on your draw length, you'll either have a 23" riser with short or medium limbs or a 25" riser with short, medium or long limbs.

-Arrows: these come in various sizes, colours and so on. Size relates to draw length. Make sure you make it clear that you're not getting competitive because they may ask if you want them cut to fit a clicker. You do not need a clicker if you are just shooting as a hobby. I would merely ask a pro shop about these!

-String: String tends to come in 2 flavours: Dacron and "fast flight." I haven't noticed a difference. You will also need a bow stringer which you'll need to string up your bow. (there are hundreds of videos showing you how to string up a recurve) Keep the packet your string comes in for storage.

Bow-stringer: Discussed above, this strings your bow up. There are two main types: a "double pocket" stringer (this has 2 "pockets" that go over each end of the bow) or a "saddle" type stringer (this has a pocket on one end and a "saddle" that goes over the limb and moves when you pull the bow up). I would STRONGLY recommend not only purchasing one of these, but also watching how to string a bow correctly with one of these.

-Finger-tab: A piece of leather that goes over your fingers. This serves a purpose of preventing sweat build up and also stops your fingers developing blisters. They have a ring that goes over the middle finger and a spacer that goes between the first and second fingers. Get a good one as they will last! (Make sure they know you're a leftie)

-Arm guard: As it sounds, it stops your arm getting hit by the bow string. as my partner can testify, it hurts like hell when you shoot correctly and the string keeps hitting your arm! (He shoots longbow) These don't cover the whole arm, they only cover part of it. (these go over the arm that holds the bow but most will fit both arms)

-Chest-guard: same reason as the arm guard. Make sure you let them know you're left-handed. These come in many sizes and styles and are also adjustable. Not everyone needs one, but I would suggest getting one. These only go over one side.

-Bow case or bag: What you need to transport your equipment in. I would recommend a bow bag over a case as they're easier to transport and cheaper! They can hold everything.

Quiver: where your arrows go. You are more likely to find one that you strap to your body. They look like a bag with tubes for your arrows. I tend to put my armguard and finger tab in the pockets of my quiver although I believe there's other places for these.

Sight: As it says on the tin. This is optional for you unless you want to get serious.

If you do decide that you want to get serious and start competing or improving your technique, I would also recommend the following bits of equipment:

-Stabiliser: these come in 2 forms, long-rod and short-rod. This keeps it stable, but I'm not entirely sure how. Most beginners start out with a long rod and add short-rods further down the line. These also come in different weights-ask the pro shop.

I hope this is enough info to start you off with. I'm happy to post a pic of my gear if requested!

[mjr]

That's PLENTY to get started with...thanks!

[fireheart]

No worries!

I would hold off on buying any equipment until you have completed a beginners course or something at an archery range. This will help you with technique and also means that once you've completed the course, you may get a "safety card" which means you can shoot at the range as often as you want. It'll also give you an idea of what your wants and needs are.

I would also look at joining a club, even if you aren't going to enter comps. I'm currently a member of a club even though I haven't entered a comp yet. I get coaching and free access to the club range (which is half of the entire range) whenever I want.

Also, a little trick that I've learned from a guy at the pro shop: if you do decide to buy recurve, don't buy special limb covers: long socks will cover them just fine.

[Barracuda]

If you are looking for something a little less expensive and serious than a competition bow, getting a bow that is meant for LARPing might not be a bad idea. Some of them would be decent target bows over mid to short range. Here's a site with some :
http://www.medievalcollectibles.com/...larp-bows.aspx