Help Finding Parts

[Tyg3rW01f]

Okay, I'm looking for parts for a 1999 Subaru Legacy SUS 30th Anniversary...

I'm looking for a kit to convert it to dual power outlets...
and I'm trying to find a dash center pocket, part #66511FA070

I know I should look up my local salvage yards for the dash pocket... but the dual outlet kit is proving momentarily elusive...

[Gravekeeper]

From what I can dig up, the part number is H6710AC000 Multiple Power Socket but its discontinued. =/

[Tyg3rW01f]

Help Finding Parts

okay... I think this thread got fried in a computer mix-up...

...and I know this is not a car-parts swap-meet...

...HOWEVER!! The CS community has such a HUGEUNGOUS base of life-experience, and world-wide reach that I figure SOMEBODY out there might have had this happen to them and would know.

See, I bought a used 30th Anniv. Ed. 1999 Subaru Legacy SUS (That's the one that eventually got turned into the WRX sport coupe)... and it has a few wrinkles. (What good used car DOESN'T?!) The previous owner, a lovely retired widow, had about $2000 of preventative maintenance done on the car: new head gaskets, new timing belt, new water pump, new catalytics... (Sweet, right?) ...but she off-handedly mentioned it had gotten hot on her in Aug '13. Being a responsible guy who wants his hard-earned delivery guy pennies put to GOOD use, I took it to my mechanic and he said it needed a new front driver's axle (Okay, no big deal; my mom's '06 Outback has been through THREE of those.)...

Here is where CS comes in...

Remember that bold and underlined bit in the last paragraph? On the way home with the car on the 21st, it STEAMS on me. Turns out the bleeder valve housing had cracked clean through. $240 USD for a new radiator. Okay, I knew the car has issues, go ahead and fix it. My mechanic, being a great guy, does.

NOW the car runs great (vibrates kinda intensely, like a foot massager when it idles) EXCEPT for one major, and one ANNOYING as f detail:
1. the temp gauge goes into the red after repeated start/stops, and the car WILL NOT blow hot air.
2. the cig-lighter/power outlet is dead (and there's only ONE)
((Guess which one is the annoying problem.))

I've spoken with coworkers and they seem to agree the thermostat is bad.
I'm no mechanic by any means; I need something done I either go to the local parts store, buy the manual, and the part and DIY it, or I call my mechanic and pay out the nose.
To those with Subaru experience: IS my therm bad, or is there something more involved that is wrong?

[lupo pazzesco]

Wish I could be more help, but we only just got our own new (to us) used Subaru. (03 Forester, 2.5x). To save on the part, have you thought about a pick and pull parts place? We have one here, and we're going to see if we can find a fender to replace the one I dinged while trying to figure out the new turn radius, compared to the Saturn we used to drive.

I don't know if it is the therm, but a lot of mechanics and places will drop the cost if you provide your own parts. We managed to get an alignment for under $150 because we provided our own shocks and struts once. Pricing where they provided the parts was almost $250. Price of the parts we found, new, was just under $70, so, yeah.

Again, can't help with the diagnostic, but parts/labor/fixing, yeah. Also, find the repair manual online and download it, it is your best friend with used cars. That with YouTube and other video tutorials really help with the DIY aspect. Before it was totaled, the other half was able to look up how to replace the entire radiator, and did it himself in the old Saturn. Cost of radiator: $100, money saved on labor, since they'd've hda to take apart the car: almost $300.

Just some random thoughts, pre-caffeine this morning. Good luck with everything!

[NecessaryCatharsis]

If you want to fix the overheating the most cost efficient method is to bypass the thermostat and wire the fan so that when the ignition is on, the fan is running. This will not fix any problem with 'blowing hot air' (I assume that refers to the interior heaters) but as long as your rad also works your car will stop overheating.

There are a number of better solutions, but they all depend on what is actually broken, and will cost more money and a lot more time.

[Tyg3rW01f]

seems a lower fitting is actually the problem... but finding out which one depends on me getting the car on the ramps... we'll see.

Most likely, it's going to be the engine mount the thermo goes in. Won't THAT be fun, seeing how that means the BLOCK would be cracked.

-------------

EDIT:
Looks like the hose going into the thermo and radiator is either not tightened down, or is corrupted... lots of spray-pattern in that area...

[protege]

edit: (for the first issue) Would something like this work?

[protege]

Again, can't help with the diagnostic, but parts/labor/fixing, yeah. Also, find the repair manual online and download it, it is your best friend with used cars. That with YouTube and other video tutorials really help with the DIY aspect.

Another low-cost idea is to pick up the Chiltons (or Haynes) manual for your car. I did that when one of the door locks on my now-gone Mazda refused to work. The dealer wanted an insane price to take the door apart. I went to the parts store, bought that manual, and fixed it myself. Granted, I still had to buy a new lock assembly, but saving a couple hundred bucks meant that the manual paid for itself. I wouldn't do that now though--there are vast numbers of message boards all over the 'net with helpful members to ask advice.

For example, I was having some issues with one of the carbs on my project car. The car required several attempts (and lots of colorful language) before it would start. After some online reading--and a call to one of the members--it fired right up. Turns out that the rear SU's air piston was stuck in the 'up' position. The member helped me free it and set the carbs correctly. Nice guy, willing to waste a few hours--over the phone, on a weekend, no less--to help someone that he never met.

Same with when I had to rebuild the suspension. The local garage wanted an insane price to do the job, mostly because of all the rusted nuts and bolts. After some heavy reading of message boards, the original shop manual, plus some ball-busting by other members, I felt confident enough to do it myself. Keep in mind that's the biggest job I've done so far.

On that message board, was a lengthy document on the tools I'd need, how to safely take it apart, and then how to put everything back together. Even though I had to spend a crapload on tools...I still made out like a bandit

[wolfie]

but she off-handedly mentioned it had gotten hot on her in Aug '13.

On the way home with the car on the 21st, it STEAMS on me. Turns out the bleeder valve housing had cracked clean through. $240 USD for a new radiator.

1. the temp gauge goes into the red after repeated start/stops, and the car WILL NOT blow hot air.

I've spoken with coworkers and they seem to agree the thermostat is bad.

Don't know how familiar you are with cars, but the purpose of the thermostat is to let the engine get up to operating temperature quickly but still allow excess heat to be dissipated. It does this by blocking coolant flow if the engine is below operating temperature, then opening to allow flow once it's warmed up. If it fails closed (normal failure mode), it won't allow coolant to circulate. This will result in the engine overheating (BAD NEWS) - hence the gauge going into the red - and since the coolant doesn't circulate, it can't get to the heater core (hence no hot air).

Since this car seems to have had a number of cooling issues, I'd suggest getting this handled by a professional. It's likely you've got a primary failure that's "killing" other parts, so until that's fixed you're pouring money down a rat hole.