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  • Painting (Walls, Not Pictures)

    So we just bought a house. Two of bedroom are currently teal and peach (ugh) so we are repainting them this weekend, light blue and pale green (yum).

    I haven't painted a room since high school. Could anyone with more experience let me know what I am missing?

    We are buying:

    Paint (duh)
    Primer, if the paint we buy doesn't have it in it already
    brushes
    roller
    pans
    drop cloths
    tape for the baseboards, windows etc
    stepladder

    More questions:

    When we go to buy paint, should we have room measurements so the paint guy knows how much to give us?

    Since we are painting over fairly dark colors with lighter colors, will we need more coats than if we were painting over light colors?

    What is the proper way to clean paintbrushes and rollers; and how do you dispose of turpentine/leftover paint?

    Thanks everyone!
    https://www.facebook.com/authorpatriciacorrell/

  • #2
    Primer or paint with built in primer should take care of the light color over dark color issue. I painted dark wood cabinets with white paint and we only needed one coat of paint + primer.

    The only thing I think you're missing is someone to keep Khan far, far away from the paint.

    If you have tall walls or are planning on doing the ceiling, you may want to get an extender for the rollers. Rollers are sold as two parts--the framework and the fuzzy thing you put paint on. Don't be like me and just buy the frame.

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    • #3
      Quoth AnaKhouri View Post
      When we go to buy paint, should we have room measurements so the paint guy knows how much to give us?

      Since we are painting over fairly dark colors with lighter colors, will we need more coats than if we were painting over light colors?
      Yes and yes. For room measurements, get the square footage of your rooms' walls. One gallon of paint will usually cover about 350 square feet. Since it's dark to light, I think you would be better off painting a separate primer layer or two first. You'll get better results in the end even though it is more expensive. They may add a tint to your primer instead of giving you pure white - so something light but tinted towards the new color. (That way if a little shows through the color layer, it isn't pure white so it won't look bad.) You can ask them about this. If you are unsure if your walls are darker enough to need separate primer, then when you get to the paint store, find one of their samples that's about the same darkness for comparison and ask them.

      I would expect in your case that you probably need enough for 1-2 layers of primer on the blue wall, maybe one layer on the peach depending on how dark the peach is, and then enough for two layers of each new color. I had to do 2 layers the last time I painted a room, and I was already painting a dark color on top of white.

      Keep paintbrushes, rollers, etc that you're not using in a tub of water. Use a mop bucket or something similar. They will dry incredibly fast otherwise and will have to be replaced. Try to not dip the paintbrushes all the way down - paint that gets into the bristles under the metal part will stiffen up and dry, because it is hard to wash out from there.

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      • #4
        Solvent of choice so you can clean the brushes afterwards (if required, check the clean-up instructions for the paint you buy).

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        • #5
          Just a tip if you want to take a break from painting. You can wrap the rollers & brushes in a plastic bag and put them in the fridge so they don't dry out. We usually keep a brush in the fridge for a few days and a small container of paint out so you can touch up spots as you notice you miss them.
          Also, goof-off or goo-gone to clean up dried drips of paint is good.

          I second the notion of a coat or two or primer separately. We also used the tinted kind, it's very helpful. It may take a few extra hours, but trust me, it's much easier than painting the entire room again later when the paint bleeds thru.

          Good luck!
          Is it really SO hard to listen to the prompts?

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          • #6
            If you get a classic metal paint bucket, get a nail, a hammer and wear your apron.

            There are 2 rims on an old paint bucket. Outer rim - external wall. Inner rim - lip for lid / bucket.

            Take a nail, and position it between Outer and Inner rim. Puncture 4 holes. One at 12 'o clock, one at 3, one at 6 and one at 9. These will help the paint go back into the can after you pour it and put the lid back on. This also will not let the paint dry in that rim which then won't let you close rim.

            Grab a few plastic shopping bags.

            When you're taking a break in your painting, take a bag, put the paint tray AND roller inside and tie it off. (flat on the floor) This won't let the paint dry when you go grab your soda and go use the bathroom .

            Rinse your paintbrushes OFTEN, and when doing it, get your FINGERS in it and poke around at the base of the brush - paint gets in there.

            Keep a wrapper from your rollers, just in case you need to send honey to fetch more roller heads from the store - can match up exactly.

            Primer ALWAYS first. Use blue tape on ceiling edge at top of wall (if you have popcorn ceilings, you're screwed) and use blue tape at trim. Tape tarp/plastic onto the trim as a lip from the carpet. Don't tape straight to carpet, flat...will leak.

            Go to dollar store (if in area) and get painting tarps and some basic supplies. Roller heads and paint mix at bigbox store.
            In my heart, in my soul, I'm a woman for rock & roll.
            She's as fast as slugs on barbituates.

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            • #7
              Stir often. Pour off a small bit of paint to use and then close up the bucket. Do not let a skin form on either your paint or your brush.

              Those cheap little "perfect edger" things? Buy some. They are GREAT for cutting in.

              You don't have to break the bank, but get good quality brushes or else you will have brush hairs all in your paint.

              Clean brushes very well. This sucks. Do it anyways. Do not store them sitting in water. Same as for roller pans. Stick them in the tub or under a hose and clean them up good. You can get a liner, but pans are so cheap it's hardly worth it. Again, avoid paint skin. Paint skin will end up all over your wall.

              Don't even try to clean the rollers. It's more work than the things are worth and you won't have a quality brush anymore when you are through more than likely. Buy the cheapest ones OF DECENT QUALITY you can and be economical when using them. They can be stored, as someone else said, in a plastic bag for a bit.

              If they are kitchen walls, you may want to wipe them down first. They may have a little grease on them, as cooking tends to do that to kitchen surfaces.

              Wet latex paint comes off with just water, it's an easy cleanup. Dry is a different story.

              Get a pile of old towel and rags and keep a damp one handy for immediate spills or smears.

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              • #8
                Painters tape, if no ones said it yet.
                Thou shalt not take the name of thy goddess Whiskey in vain.

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                • #9
                  Quoth RecoveringKinkoid View Post
                  Stir often. Pour off a small bit of paint to use and then close up the bucket. Do not let a skin form on either your paint or your brush.

                  Those cheap little "perfect edger" things? Buy some. They are GREAT for cutting in.

                  You don't have to break the bank, but get good quality brushes or else you will have brush hairs all in your paint.

                  SNIP
                  If they are kitchen walls, you may want to wipe them down first. They may have a little grease on them, as cooking tends to do that to kitchen surfaces.

                  SNIP
                  Get a pile of old towel and rags and keep a damp one handy for immediate spills or smears.
                  That part I bolded? Use TSP for kitchen walls, reg water & sponge mop for other walls.

                  TSP: tri sodium phosphate. One tsp per bucket of water (1 - 2 gal) and use sponge, glove and wash walls. Will get more grunge offa that wall than you think. Let dry totally (open doors, fan, etc) and then paint.
                  Other walls, use water, sponge mop head and mop the walls Top to Bottom. (dirt runs down)


                  She's right about towels and rags and other stuff. Use the spongy edge things for making a border at the top of the wall, so your roller won't hit ceiling when you paint. If you have trim around doors with a bit of a space between Top Trim and Ceiling, use a small 1" brush and hand paint...carefully.

                  I had to help my BF paint his mom's condo's insides. Learned a lot.
                  In my heart, in my soul, I'm a woman for rock & roll.
                  She's as fast as slugs on barbituates.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Quoth AnaKhouri View Post
                    When we go to buy paint, should we have room measurements so the paint guy knows how much to give us?
                    You need a gallon of each, unless you need to do a million coats or the room is ridiculously huge. If you do wind up needing more, you can always pick it up when you go back to get the things you forgot.

                    Quoth AnaKhouri View Post
                    Since we are painting over fairly dark colors with lighter colors, will we need more coats than if we were painting over light colors?
                    Yes. The paint with primer in it is great, but in my experience it doesn't cover as well as primer, then paint. I recommend Kilz latex primer, it covers very well.

                    If the ceiling isn't white, paint it white, or whatever off white is recommended with the color you chose.

                    If you're painting the ceiling, paint that first, otherwise you'll get splatter all over your nicely painted walls, and when you cut the edges bring the color down 1/2 to 1 inch or so on the walls, that way if you don't quite get to the corner you won't have this spot of primer or the original color glaring at you.

                    Remove any painters tape before the paint is too dry, otherwise it will either peel or chip when you take the tape off.

                    If you paint any horizontal surfaces give it at least 48 hrs before you leave something sitting on them, just because the paint feels dry doesn't mean it is dry. If it's very humid I might give it as long as a week.

                    When you block something off with painters tape, the seal isn't quite complete. If they are very different colors, run a light coat of whatever color is meant to be protected over the edges of the tape, and wait for it to mostly dry before painting the top color.

                    You need trim trays, something to pry the lid off with, and something to bang it back on tight with.

                    Store the brushes and rollers in plastic bags in the fridge when they have paint on them, they'll keep for a couple of days.

                    The paint desk at Home Depot has this "13 in 1" painting tool at it. I can't figure out what all the tools are meant to be, but it has a bit you can use to open the can, you can use the end to bang the lid back on, a scraper in case you let paint dry on something it shouldn't , and a curvy bit to scrape extra paint out of the roller head when you're done with it.

                    Speaking of roller heads, don't try and reuse them. Once you're done with the color, throw them out. A washed roller head will get fluffy bits in your paint and require at least one more coat to cover well than a fresh one.

                    Those canvas drop cloths are great for splatters, not so much for spills. If you spill get it cleaned up right away, or paint your floor the same color as your walls.

                    Plastic drop cloths are hella slippery, don't buy them.

                    You don't need anything more than a sink to clean out your brushes, if you get latex based paint. Just stick them under running water and squeeze and twist them with your fingers until the water runs clear, but don't twist them too far because it will mangle the brush a bit. You can get a comb for cleaning brushes, but it's hella sharp, I've never used one without cutting myself, and it's not really worth it unless you do a lot of painting.

                    DON'T get oil based paint.

                    Wipe down any horizontal surface before you paint it. Especially make sure the tops of the door frames and windows are free of dust.

                    If you have excess paint, seal the lid tight and store it in the basement or garage, somewhere out of the way. At the very least it will provide a good place to get a sample to match when you need to do touch ups.

                    If you don't have extra paint, you leave the lid off and let the can dry out, you don't need to wash it, then you can throw it out with your garbage.

                    Have a damp rag or two standing by to wipe up drips.

                    Don't forget to wear clothes you are OK getting all painty.

                    That's all I can think of for now, if I remember something I haven't said I'll let you know.
                    The High Priest is an Illusion!

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                    • #11
                      Re: disposal - Check with the township about hazardous materials disposal. There is probably a facility somewhere you can drop them off at, and/or they may do residential pickups once or twice a year where you can put them out on a specific day.
                      I don't go in for ancient wisdom
                      I don't believe just 'cause ideas are tenacious
                      It means that they're worthy - Tim Minchin, "White Wine in the Sun"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If the existing walls aren't beautifully smooth, you'll get better results if you sand the walls back first. Hire a power sander, and a breathing mask. CHECK FOR LEAD FIRST. If there is lead, ask advice from the paint specialists at your hardware store.

                        If there's peeling paint, get it off with a paint scraper, heat torch or sander. (again, check for lead.)

                        If there are any nails, holes in the walls, etc, pull out nails that aren't actually structural. Fill in holes or dents with the appropriate filler - again, the paint specialists can tell you which one, and how to use them.

                        Basically, examine the walls. You'll get the best result if the walls are smooth, hole-free, have no visible dents. If the kickboards and ceiling mouldings and (if any) picture rails are in good condition and properly attached. If attachments such as light switches are in good condition and properly attached as well.

                        Do window and door frames first. Ditto for mouldings. Then 'cut in' around those with your current layer of paint, with a small brush. Use a ladder for the ceiling moulding. Use the 'cut in' tool to help keep from painting the moulding. Use rollers or larger brushes once you're a distance from the moulding/power point/light switch/whatever.

                        Seriously consider spending on a low-emissions paint. It's healthier, you're breathing less paint fume.

                        Do multiple thin layers, not thick layers. Thick layers will drip and take longer to dry. Thin layers don't drip, dry faster, and the same amount of paint in thin layers seems to give better coverage anyway.
                        Seshat's self-help guide:
                        1. Would you rather be right, or get the result you want?
                        2. If you're consistently getting results you don't want, change what you do.
                        3. Deal with the situation you have now, however it occurred.
                        4. Accept the consequences of your decisions.

                        "All I want is a pretty girl, a decent meal, and the right to shoot lightning at fools." - Anders, Dragon Age.

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                        • #13
                          I meant to say, if you have a bunch of old paint that has gone bad, solidify it with sand before taking it to the dump. However, do not do this with good paint. You may need it for touch ups later on down the line.

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                          • #14
                            Oh, right, take off the light switch and outlet plates, it's way easier than trying to paint around them.
                            The High Priest is an Illusion!

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                            • #15
                              Quoth ArcticChicken View Post
                              Oh, right, take off the light switch and outlet plates, it's way easier than trying to paint around them.
                              Or do what my apartment complex does and paint right over them! Cobwebs on the heater? Paint over those too!!
                              I don't go in for ancient wisdom
                              I don't believe just 'cause ideas are tenacious
                              It means that they're worthy - Tim Minchin, "White Wine in the Sun"

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