Car advice

[Chromatix]

The full setting probably connects power directly to the works, while the lesser settings will go through some kind of reducer circuitry, possibly some resistors connected to a power transistor. If that transistor goes bad, or the link from the resistors to it, then you won't get any power.

[fireheart]

The full setting probably connects power directly to the works, while the lesser settings will go through some kind of reducer circuitry, possibly some resistors connected to a power transistor. If that transistor goes bad, or the link from the resistors to it, then you won't get any power.

does this require a mechanic only fixing?

[It's me]

The full setting probably connects power directly to the works, while the lesser settings will go through some kind of reducer circuitry, possibly some resistors connected to a power transistor. If that transistor goes bad, or the link from the resistors to it, then you won't get any power.

Yep, that's almost certainly how it works, given the vintage of the car.

Set of wire coils with different resistances; by connecting the coils together differently (1 coil, 2 coil or 3 coils etc. ) you get different resistances and therefore different fan speeds. For full speed the coils are bypassed. Depending on which coil has failed you loose one or more fan speeds.

The coils are usually all on a module and positioned so they are hit by the air flow in the ducting right after the blower motor so they don't overheat.

Replacement is as simple as undoing the wiring connector, removing a few screws, and and pulling out the module. Stick in a new module and put the screws and connector back.

As a temporary fix you can check to see which coil is broken and try twisting the broken ends together... but new modules aren't that much money.... old coils are likely to quite brittle anyway. And the coils can get quite hot............

[wolfie]

Although I have a new conundrum for everyone....my air conditioner on my car will only work if I put it onto the full blast switch. It will not work on lower settings AT ALL. Any ideas?

On settings other than full blast, does the blower run without the A/C (i.e. A/C pilot light doesn't come on), or does the blower not run (A/C pilot may or may not come on - some systems turn the A/C off if the blower is off, and a dead blower may fool the A/C). The advice you've already received is for a blower that doesn't run except at full blast.

If your problem is that the blower runs, A/C pilot comes on, but you don't get cooling until you turn the blower full blast, stop using the A/C - this is a sign that the A/C is very weak (most likely due to loss of refrigerant). Running the A/C under these circumstances could cause compressor damage. What refrigerant do you have (R12, R134a, or a hydrocarbon replacement)? If R12 (unlikely - Australia may be different, but nobody around here was putting R12 systems in '95 cars), you'll probably have to get it retrofitted. With R134a, you may or may not be able to get a "top up" kit (in U.S., it's an "off the shelf" item, in Canada you need a license to buy R134a) - if you can get one, get one with a gauge, and see if the pressure on the low side is within the normal range when the system is running. If it is, you need a professional. If it's low, add some refrigerant. If you've got the hydrocarbon replacement, get a hydrocarbon "top up" kit with a gauge, and see above. If you don't know what you've got, take it to a professional.